One might not think that asking a young man for directions while standing in a hotel courtyard in Jaisalmer, Rajhastan in northern India would lead to a treatment plan for tobacco dependence, but that is exactly what happened. Smokers worldwide are hungry to quit, and this desert town a mere 90 miles from the Pakistan border is no different.  I wanted directions to a restaurant for lunch -- he wanted help quitting smoking.

I have found in India that once you start talking with people they soon want to know what it is you do for a living.  Such was the case with my soon-to-be friend Rajh. On a 100 degree day we sat in a courtyard, with street dogs sleeping nearby and the ever-present cow wandering by, and I helped him put together a plan to quit.  He was eager and paid attention to each detail in the plan.

Later that evening he came to pick me up on his motorcycle and took me to the tombs of the Jaisalmer Marajawals dating back to the 1200s and then to photograph the walled city in the the setting sun as its limestone walls glowed yellow and orange.  He told me had not had a cigarette since we talked.

I fully suspect Rajh will struggle as the days go on, but where there is a will there is a way.  And Rajh seemed determined to suceed.  I gave him my email address and told him to stay in touch.  I know he will.